Tourist ger camp, family ger, or a tent
Three ways to sleep in the countryside, and the honest difference between them. Choose before you book — it changes the trip more than the itinerary does.
Three ways to sleep in the countryside, and the honest difference between them. Choose before you book — it changes the trip more than the itinerary does.

Almost every question we get about accommodation is really the same question: how rough is it? The answer depends entirely on which of three options you pick, and the gap between them is wide.
A ger is a round structure of lattices, poles and a peaked roof, covered in canvas and felt and tightened with ropes. A tourist ger camp is that, with full service facilities: solar power supplying 220V, showers, bathrooms and the basic necessities. Camps serve both Mongolian and international food, usually with a choice of main dish. Every camp we use is one we have verified ourselves.
Same structure, same solar power at 220V — but pitched next to a working herding family in the countryside rather than in a serviced camp. This is the closest you get to nomadic life, and the reason many people come. It is also where the facilities are more limited than in a tourist camp, and we would rather you knew that in advance than discovered it at dusk.
Plenty of travellers mix the two across a trip: family gers for the nights that matter, camps when they want a long shower. Tell us which you prefer when you enquire.
On some routes there are no ger camps and no local hotels, so we camp. You get good two- or three-person tents, mattresses and the necessary equipment. There are no formal toilets or showers — a sheltered hole and a sheltered shower, plus water we provide for washing up.
On camping days we usually send vehicle support with an expedition chef, and always for groups over six. For fewer than five travellers your guide and driver cook; all our guides have basic cooks' training, and they are happy to let you help. Where there is no vehicle support we carry dried and canned food — fresh fruit and vegetables rarely survive past the first couple of days.
Mongolia's rating system approves 2- to 5-star hotels to receive foreign guests. Depending on the tour we use 3- to 5-star hotels in cities, chosen on research, our own experience and client feedback. Check-in is usually from 14:00, check-out by noon, and local fire codes cap rooms at three people — which is why a family of four gets two adjoining rooms rather than one big one.

The season runs May to October. July gets the festival and the crowds — but if you asked us privately which weeks to book, we'd say the ones nobody fights over.

No endless orange dunes. A cold desert on a high plateau, with ice in its gorges in July and the first dinosaur eggs ever found lying in its cliffs.

Thin layers, a converter, and lip balm. The list is short, but the items on it are the ones people wish they'd brought.